1997 J. L. Chave Saint-Joseph “Offerus”

Before he became a saint, Saint Christopher’s name was Offerus. In Latin, offere means “to carry,” “to sacrifice,” or “to serve.”

As a child, Offerus was clumsy and slow-witted but he was also very strong. By the time he was ten, Offerus was the tallest man in his village. By the time he was fourteen, he was a giant. After he came of age, Offerus traveled. Wherever he went, he told people his goal was to serve the greatest king on earth. When he was still a young man, Offerus was introduced to a powerful king. The moment the king saw Offerus, he hired him as his bodyguard.

One day a singer came to the castle. In the middle of a song, the singer forgot a verse. The singer stamped his foot, then he uttered the name of the devil. The moment the king heard the devil’s name, he made the sign of the cross.

“Why do you make that sign?” said Offerus.

“We fear the devil,” said the king. “All good men do.”

“Excuse me,” said Offerus, “but I have to leave.”

“Why are you leaving?”

“You fear Satan. That means Satan is more powerful than you. I must find Satan and serve him.”

Late that evening, on a road through the mountains, a band of horsemen approached Offerus. Each horseman was dressed in red, except for the leader, who was dressed in black. “Who are you looking for?” said the leader.

“Satan,” said Offerus. “I want to serve him.”

“Follow me,” said Satan.

For years, Offerus rode with Satan. He followed the devil’s example and did the devil’s work. One morning, on a long ride through the forest, the band of horsemen came upon a wooden cross by the side of the road. Satan held up his hand. The band of horsemen turned around.

“Why are we turning around?” said Offerus.

“I fear the image of Christ,” said Satan.

Offerus got off his horse. “Excuse me,” he said, “but I have to leave.”

“Why?” said Satan.

“If you fear the image of Christ, then Christ is the greater king.” Offerus handed his reins to Satan, then he passed alone before the cross.

A year later, Offerus met a hermit. The hermit wore a monk’s robe and carried a lamp. Offerus asked the hermit where to find Christ. “What makes you think you can find him?” said the hermit.

“I want to serve the greatest king on earth,” said Offerus. “To serve Christ, I need to find him. Do you know where he is?”

“Christ is everywhere,” said the hermit.

“I may not be smart,” said Offerus, “but I can see. If Christ is everywhere, why can’t I see him?”

“Christ is served by prayer, and by fasting and watching.”

“Are there no other ways a simple man can serve him?”

The hermit led Offerus to the banks of a raging river. The water in the river was melted snow from the mountains. “People have drowned here,” said the hermit. “Stay by the river. When people try to cross, carry them on your shoulders. If you perform this service for the love of Christ, you will be Christ’s servant.”

Offerus built a hut by the river. He spent the rest of his life there, carrying people back and forth across the water. As he grew older, Offerus found the work tiring. One evening, at the end of a long, cold day, he fell asleep on his bed. He was in a deep slumber when he heard a knock at the door. “Offerus,” said a child’s voice.

Offerus got to his feet and opened the door. A child stood in the doorway. “I need to cross the river,” he said.

“It’s the middle of the night,” said Offerus.

“I have to cross now,” said the child.

Offerus lifted the child onto his shoulders and stepped out into the river. The current was cold and violent. Offerus resisted the current but the child was heavy. Offerus was afraid of dropping the child so he walked back to the bank of the river and uprooted a tree. Using the tree as a staff, he waded into the river. Halfway across, the waves grew large and powerful. With each step, the child became heavier.

“Child,” said Offerus, “why do you weigh so much? I feel like I’m carrying the world on my back tonight.”

“Not just the world,” said the child, “but the one who made it.”

Which brings us to the 1997 J. L. Chave Saint-Joseph “Offerus.”

In the glass, the wine is an opaque garnet. The bouquet seems light at first, with overtones of roses, but those overtones become undertones of dry oak leaves, saddle leather, and tobacco. On the palate, the 1997 Offerus is spontaneous but serious. The finish makes you wonder how such an unassuming wine can finish on such an emphatic note.

After he carried the child across the river, Offerus came to be known as Christopherus—“the servant of Christ.” A more esoteric translation, from the Greek Chrusophoros, is “the one who carries the gold.”

Christians invoke Saint Christopher as the patron saint of bookbinders, gardeners, mariners, taxi drivers, and truck drivers. He is invoked against epilepsy, floods, lightning, and storms. The island of Saint Kitts was once known as Saint Christopher’s. He is the patron saint of Catalonia. His feast day is July 25.

The more you learn about Saint Christopher, the more engaging his legend becomes. Like great wines and great people, the best legends are works in progress.

One Bottle is dedicated to the appreciation of good wines and good times, one bottle at a time. You can write to Joshua Baer at jb@onebottle.com.